SAFETY
The water is clean, the food is good, the people quiet. Rowdy groups will likely be foreigners.

SHOPPING
Of the main Baltic ports, this is one of the cheapest. You'll need to change money into kroons..

TRANSPORT
Trams are ideal for visitors, especially on a 1-day ticket. Beware of taxi prices.

WEATHER
During the White Nights, your ship will set sail before the sun goes down. Breathtaking views.

the city

Helsinki and Tallinn face each other across the Gulf of Finland, separated by 60 miles (100 km) of sea. Several ferries cross daily. The trip takes 2½ hours.

To the east of Tallinn lies St Petersburg, an overnight voyage away. From Tallinn to Narva, on the Russian border, is 130 miles (210 km) by road. From Narva to St Petersburg is then another 90 miles (145 km) of roads.

The second city of Estonia is Tartu, in the middle of Estonia. While Tallinn is the business capital, Tartu is the cultural centre with the oldest university. Dozens of express buses travel between the two each day. The journey takes 2½ hours.

To the west are the Estonian isles of Saaremaa and Hiiumaa in the Gulf of Riga. A few cruises ships call in Saaremaa - six in 2008. At the south end of the Gulf of Riga is Riga itself, the capital of Latvia.

THE APPROACH
Unlike the Finnish shore of the Gulf of Finland, with its tens of thousands of islands, the Estonian coast is rather plain. The water is deep but the hinterland is flat.

There are few points of interest until the great hill of Tallinn heaves into view and it becomes instantly clear why the first fortress was built at this place, nearly 1000 years ago. Now is worth going on deck as the spires of the old town come closer.

Just offshore is Naissaar, an island about 5 miles (7½ km) long, north to south. It even has its own narrow-gauge railway line, built when it was used as a military base. The island is littered with old sea mines, all defused of course. Unfortunately little is visible from passing ships because Naissaar iss covered by forest. It's a nature reserve and a popular spot for picnics.

Ships from Stockholm generally approach the Port of Tallinn between Naissaar and the mainland. Those arriving from or headed to St Petersburg pass between Naissaar and Aegna Island.

ASHORE
Tallinn is a peaceful capital and the Old Town is particularly safe for visitors, although the usual warnings about thieves apply. In the evening, groups of rowdies are more likely to be foreigners than locals. This is a popular destination not only for cruise visitors but for Finnish "vodka tourists" and British stag parties, too.

Young people in Tallinn are likely to speak some English, not as well as in Helsinki or Stockholm but far better than in St Petersburg. Estonians are friendly but reserved. Anyone actively approaching tourists is probably trying to give away leaflets about a nearby restaurant or shop.

European-standard mobile phones will work everywhere. Many bars and restaurants also have WiFi hotspots, often without much bandwidth but adequate if there aren't a lot of people online.

The tap water is pure. So is the food in the shops. Estonia has been transformed since it regained its independence when the Soviet Union broke up, and it has been an EU member since 2004. Tallinn looks, smells and tastes like a modern western city.

Shopping The department stores west of the Old Town open at 9:00 every day of the week and stay open till 21:00 (9 p.m.) or later. Smaller shops may close early on Saturdays and most are closed on Sundays.

Prices of ordinary things are not as low as in St Petersburg but the range of high-quality items is better. Prices are sometimes a quarter less than in Finland but the range is not so great.

In Tallinn, the farther you travel from the town centre, the lower price and quality get. Luxury goods are available in all Baltic cities, of course, at luxury prices.

Estonia is not yet in the euro zone; it has its own currency, the crown or kroon. Visitors can sometimes pay in euros but it's wise to have crowns available. See money changing.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
To enjoy the Old Town you need a sturdy pair of shoes. The streets are cobbled, sometimes unevenly, and there are many steps up and down, especially into shops.

Coaches can't navigate these narrow streets and cars are banned from the fine area around the Town Hall Square, so taxis don't help much. For those unable to walk, bicycle taxis are the best solution.

Tallinn's public transport system has buses, trolley buses and trams. The same tickets work in all three. The buses are for fairly long distances and the trolley buses don't go anywhere interesting. For visitors the trams are best and move at a pace that lets you see things. They operate from about 6:00 to just before midnight.

Fares You pay 20 crowns for your ride to the driver when you enter. If you buy the ticket in advance from a kiosk, the price is 13 crowns, or 90 crowns for a package of ten. Even more convenient is a 24-hour ticket, available from kiosks only for 40 crowns.

It is unwise to travel without a ticket, even for the best of reasons. The chances of getting caught are slim but ticket inspectors take their job seriously and can take ages to process the culprits. The fine of 800 crowns is bearable but the value of a wasted day or the cost of missing the ship is not.

Single tickets bought in advance have to be validated in one of the manual punching machines in the tram, bus or trolley bus, as soon as you climb on board. 24-hour tickets must be registered when you first use them, in the electronic machine by the second door of the vehicle.

TAXIS
Until recently the best advice on getting a taxi in Tallinn was: Don't. In 2008 Tallink shipping line grew tired of hearing how its passengers had been cheated and set up its own taxi company. The others are now reluctantly cleaning up their act.

Although taxis are subject to licensing, there are no price controls (similar to the situation in Stockholm but unlike most other cities). Consequently, no general price level can be given here. The driver may ask for whatever he likes and the cabs that hang around outside late-night bars have been known to charge astronomic fees.

The main safeguard for consumers is that the tariff must be displayed in the window of the cab, readable by the passenger before he steps in. If you do not read it, you have only yourself to blame. You do not have to take the first cab in line. You can pick whatever taxi, driver or price suits you.

WEATHER
Like Helsinki and St Petersburg, Tallinn is far enough north to experience 'White nights', when the sun doesn't set until late at night. During the summer it is still bright when cruise ships set sail in the evening.

The warmest months are June to August, when daytime high temperatures are 18-21°C (65-70°F). There are about 180 rainy days a year. The rainiest months are July to September, so June would seem to be the best time to visit but these are only long-term averages.